Michael Lenz
Mariani is a devout Muslim woman. However, just as the transsexual has not always been a woman she has not always been a follower of Islam. The 53 year old mother of a nine year old, adopted daughter was born into a Catholic family in Yogyakarta in Central Java. But even working as a cook in a Catholic convent couldn’t stop her from switching religion. “I always felt attracted by Islam”, she confesses.
Her love for Allah made Mariani famous beyond the borders of the Sultanate of Yogyakarta. Four years ago Mariani founded a pesantren, an Islamic school, for Waria, her fellow transsexuals. It was the tragic 2006 Yogyakarta earthquake killing more than 6000 people and destroying the houses of tens of thousands that inspired her. “Many transsexuals were affected by the earthquake. We raised donations and also organized a prayer event. That was when I realised how many transsexuals are devoted Muslims whose spiritual and religious needs are not really met by a traditional pesantren.”
Every Sunday at 6 PM some transsexual women and gay men congregate in the small room with orange walls behind Mariani’s beauty salon in a suburb in Yogyakarta to listen to the teachings of Abdul Muiz, an Islamic ustad (teacher). Interpreting God’s word to transgender people does not strike the 33 year old straight Imam as queer at all. “In the eyes of Allah all people are equal.”
The outspoken Abdul Muiz is a fine example of the moderate Indonesian Muslims which constitute the majority of Muslims in the archipelago state. The more hardline political Islam, though, has made considerate inroads into the higher echelons of Indonesian politics. The most militant of them is the Islamic Defenders Front. They violently attack everything and everybody seen as “unislamic”. Besides western style bars gays and transsexuals are their prime targets. Also some local Imams have issued fatwas against transsexuals.
The Indonesians have a somewhat ambivalent relation with their Waria. Transsexuals are a staple feature in Indonesian TV sitcoms. In the pre-colonial and pre-Islam era in some parts of Indonesia Waria were seen as a third gender and revered as a wanderer between the worlds. Since many – even Muslim – people on Java still practice animism they have retained a sort of respect for Waria. Mariani says: “I have never ever encountered any problems in my neighbourhood. In fact, the people here support me and the pesantren.”
The Sunday gathering at the pesantren is as also much a social event. After the prayers the Waria exchange make up tips and talk about that often not so easy life. Despite funny sitcoms and Animism beliefs many Waria are discriminated against and traditional jobs are usually a no-go-zone for Waria which forces many of them to make a living as musician on the streets of Yogyakarta, singer and dancer in night clubs, or as prostitutes.
Nur is a bit shy. It is her first visit to the Pesantren. She had to leave her village far away from Yogyakarta where she ran a little Warung. “The pressure became unbearable. I had to leave.” Nur, who has found herself a job as a cook with a family in Yogyakarta, is warmly welcomed in the little Pesantren community. After the teaching and the prayers dinner is served and over rice, tofu soup and tea Nur and the other girls chitchat and giggle as if they had been best friends for a long time.
